To attain smooth, clean miter saw cuts with little spurs while cutting aluminum, you usually need a blade suited for non-ferrous materials typically having “TCG” triple chip grind tooth profiles, which work best on aluminum as well as plastic materials.
As it happens generally, a lot of people focus exclusively on the kind of saw that they should buy, often ignoring a key factor, this is the saw blade itself. You can buy the best, expensive saw in the market, however, if it is not equipped with the right blade best suited for the particular job, then you won’t achieve the maximum output out of your saw. This is exactly where we intend to help you.
In this article, we will tell you everything that you need to know about aluminum cutting miter saw blades; including which of the blades are best for each type of job as well as what other things you should weigh in before buying one.
Top 10 Miter Saw Blade for Cutting Aluminum Reviews 2022
Below we have sorted for you the best miter saw blades suitable for cutting aluminum.
1. Tomax 10-Inch Blade
TOMAX saw blades are specifically designed for superior performance and maximum life. This aluminum and non-ferrous metal saw blade from Tomax is Perma-Shield Non-Stick Coated to reduce blade drag and protect the blade from corrosion and pitch build-up too.
The specifically designed Laser-cut anti-vibration slots help to significantly reduce vibration and sideward movement in the cut which proves life-extending for the blade and gives a crisp, flawless finish without any splinters.
This 80-Tooth TCG (triple chip grind geometry) TOMAX blade has sub-micron sized carbide grains providing sharpness, reducing the edge’s wear and tear. The laser-cut steel blade body offers smoother cuts and flatness, while the laser-cut anti-vibration technology reduces noise and vibration.
With a 10 inch (254mm) diameter and 5/8 Inch arbor size, this saw blade is suitable for different miter saws requiring less power but providing maximum performance and a faster feed rate with up to 5500 RPM.
2. Oshlun SBNF-100100
The Professional Grade C-1carbide prepared especially is designed with the purpose of lasting longer and making clean, burr-free cuts in all types of non-ferrous metals including aluminum, copper, brass, bronze, and even some plastics like PVC.
The 2.05 pounds, 100 Tooth saw blade has a 10-inch diameter and 5/8-Inch Arbor. This saw blade also features copper plugged expansion slots to condense noise and vibration. However, always use a coolant when cutting non-ferrous metals and employ proper clamping devices.
Ideal for cutting 1/8-inch sheets of aluminum and 1/4 x 1/2- inch copper bars, the 100-teeth produces a smooth, clean finish when cutting both aluminum and copper but this blade is so not recommended to cut steel or other ferrous metal.
3. Twin Town Blade
The Twin-Town 10 inch blade is designed for high speed cutting operation with a maximum of 5500 rpm. Made up of alloy steel, it’s 80 tungsten carbide teeth have a C4 construction grade to give it twice the working life.
It features stabilizers precisely cut by laser which not only reduce both noises as well as vibrations but also keeps it cooler. The TCG grind gives it the ability to cut any non-ferrous metal smoothly and cleanly.
With a thin kerf design and expansion slots, this blade is made for a fast, accurate, and smooth cutting experience leaving a mirror-like surface.
The 5/8 inch arbor makes it usable on a variety of saws. This 1.68-pound durable piece of engineering bears a unique ID code and is an ideal match on a miter saw for cutting plastic, aluminum, or any other non-ferrous metals.
4. Comoware Saw Blade
It has a unique grooved pattern for the reduction of noise and vibration. The blade is made out of 40-45HRC steel while its 100 hardened carbide teeth are manufactured in a TCG design for smooth long-life cutting. Its generic 1-inch arbor bestows it the ability to be fitted on any saw with both circular as well as diamond holes.
The 15-degree hook angle improves the sharpness by evenly distributing force and keeps the blade cool by efficiently dissipating heat. The hardened wear and corrosion-resistant blade work wonders in non-conventional environments.
Always place the blade after use in a dry area, away from dampness to prevent it from rusting. This fabulous blade can cut through any non-ferrous metal efficiently and effortlessly and is a must-have in any light-duty workshop.
5. Freud LU94M010
Freud’s LU94M010 is a fantastic blade for cutting plexiglass and plastic material. Made of highly compact titanium cobalt carbide with modified triple chip grind (M-TCG) tips, it gives smooth and clean cuts. The Freud patent fabrication technology creates carbide grains as small as 0.4 microns instead of conventional ~5 microns increasing its wear resistance manifolds over other blades.
The blade is designed to furnish a negative hook angle thereby reducing the chipping and possible melting of the workpiece. There exist laser generated anti-vibration spaces that stabilize the rotation and reduces vibration as well as noise.
This saw blade is coated with silver I.C.E. coating to prevent corrosion and rust and evenly dissipates heat over the whole surface preventing blade wrapping and enhancing its life. It also inhibits any pitch or resin build up on the surface.
This pretension blade comes precision balanced for heavy-duty cutting and has a longer working life. It is highly recommended for cutting light metals, acrylics, plexiglass, plastics as well as chipboards and laminates.
6. Mastec Tct Saw Blade
It is a 10-Inch, 80 Carbide Teeth cut-off blade from Mastec aimed to provide a refined finish with a laser-generated 5/8-inch arbor. Hi-Density Carbide with titanium used on the teeth ensure a long life of the blade and a flawless finish on cuts.
This multi-purpose saw blade can be used on a table saw, miter saw, or circular saw and is Ideal with the TCG Grind for cutting smoothly through non-ferrous metals such as aluminum, brass, copper, bronze, and others as well as plastics including plexiglass, PVC, Acrylics & Fiberglass.
The Electrophoretic Coating on the saw blade reduces the chances of rusting and corrosion and the laser cut stabilizer vents trick noise and reduce vibration keeping it cool and reducing blade bend providing durable, steady, and clean cutting.
Works great with a powerful 4800RPM saw and cuts a perfect aluminum extrusion piece or tubing without having to clean it later with a file. Before using this ultra-crisp, sharp blade, ensure that all the aluminum cutting safety instructions are being followed and that the blade is in place and accurately locked before pressing the trigger.
7. Freud LU77M010
The 80 Teeth, with TCG Grind made out of specially formulated TiCo HI-Density carbide, allows for maximum performance and assured for a long tooth life. The silver I.C.E coating on this Freud blade is designed to resist corrosion and gum or pitch build-up.
This thin kerf, a strong, and long lasting cutting blade yield an excellent finish on non-ferrous metals. With the custom designed gullets, this blade knows how to minimize chip build-up.
With this blade’s strong teeth, a maximum of 1/4-inch thick non-ferrous materials can easily be cut. However, Freud recommends using a liquid lubricant when cutting metals after every 4 to 5 cuts, but avoid using any sort of wax sticks.
8. Overpeak Atb Saw Blade
This 10-inch blade from OVERPEAK is made of tougher tungsten carbide, having almost 5 times longer cutting life than others. Even after repeated cutting, it will not become dull nor will let its blade warp.
The unique cemented sharp carbide teeth in an Alternate-Top Bevel arrangement can pierce wood, aluminum, and other non-ferrous metals like butter, and provide an improved cutting accuracy with maximum working efficiency.
This multipurpose framing saw blade is great to be used for a circular saw, table saw, and miter saw with up to 6000 RPM. The blade will never crack in softwoods and it leaves smooth, polished cuts that don’t even require any sanding.
There are 4 laser cut expansion slots with 8 laser-generated stabilizer vents on this blade to control noise and vibration, simultaneously keeping it cool and dropping blade warp. And the Thin kerf of the blade offers fast and smooth cutting action with the least waste.
9. Cmt 254.080.10 Blade
This 10 inches saw blade can be used on radial arm saws, miter saws, table, and special saws are ideal for heavy-duty cutting on metals like aluminum, brass, copper, PVC, and non-ferrous metals. It produces good results on thick-walled extrusions however is excellent on thin-walled ones.
This CMT blade features a kerf thickness of 0.098, a heavy-duty plate (46-48 Rockwell in hardness) with a thickness of 0.071, and a negative cutting/hook angle of 6° which sanctions for a less aggressive cut.
The micro-grain carbide cutting edges on the 80 teeth arranged in TCG (ß) – Triple Chip Grind guarantee quality performance on non-ferrous metals, PVC, and melamine. While the anti-vibration design along with the expansion slots are designed such that they reduce noise and vibration, preventing the tool from warping and making it last longer.
This CMT blade is fashioned by following precise procedures and methods to certify superior value and allow for higher performance: balanced and pre-tensioned blade, tri-metal brazing (copper-silver-copper), and laser-cutting for the thin-kerf steel plate.
10. Benchmark Abrasives Blade
This non-ferrous metal blade is designed with precise micro-grain tungsten carbide tips and a triple chip tooth configuration on the 80 Carbide Teeth and they generate hardly any sparks with very little heat, which allows the cutting material to be handled easily and quickly.
The specially formulated high-density carbide leaves behind clean, burr-free cuts in most of the non-ferrous metals such as aluminum, copper, brass, bronze, and even cuts through some plastics and still lasts longer.
The 10-inch blade also features copper plugged expansion slots which are made to reduce noise and vibration. However, it is suggested to not exceed an RPM of 5,200.
The Buying Guide of Cutting Aluminum With Miter Saw Blade
If you are looking for a blade for cutting aluminum or any other non-ferrous metals, you should keep certain key features in mind. Following are some of the more important parameters when deciding about purchasing a blade.
- The correct type of blade
The first and foremost thing to consider when buying a saw blade is the correct type of blade. Whether you own a miter saw or table saw, you have to consider what type of metal you need to cut.
Following are the main blade types for cutting non-ferrous metals:
- Abrasive Blades
These blades are made out of fiberglass and offer higher power and durability when cutting light metals. However, these blades should only be used on the table saws and are not recommended for miter saws as their bearings cannot withstand the load, and sparks generated during cutting can cause melting of plastic parts like blade guard in the near vicinity.
- Carbon Steel Blades
Carbon steel blades are the most common and cheapest blades. As a workhorse saw blade, they can be used in a variety of cutting jobs on any type of saw. However, they can only be used for softer materials.
- High-Speed Steel Blades (HSS)
After the common carbon steel blade, there are high-speed steel blades. These blades are usually designed for miter saws. Due to their toughness / harder and ability to retain their sharpness at a higher temperature (up to 600°C) from metal cutting; these blades can perform well at relatively higher speeds.
- Carbide Tipped Miter Saw Blades
The last blades are carbide tipped saw blades. Although most expensive among all the blades, they are able to do any kind of cutting with ease as they are the most durable and strongest.
They are made out of hardened steel plates with their cutting edges made out of tough carbide materials. Usually, they are coated with insulation films to keep them cool and long-lasting.
- Teeth count of blades
One of the most important things you should look into is the teeth count of the saw blade. The number of teeth on a saw blade dictates the nature of the material to-be-cut. As a rule of thumb, a larger number of teeth on a blade means smooth cuts and vice versa. Therefore, for cutting non-ferrous metals, you need a lower number of teeth than in the case of wood.
For low thickness workpiece, choose a blade with approximately 10 teeth per diameter inch for example 100 teeth on a 10-inch blade or 120 teeth on a 12-inch blade. For thicker metallic workpieces, you should lower it to say 8 teeth per diameter inch for example 80 teeth on a 10-inch blade. And this pattern goes on with even thicker workpieces.
- Kerf size of the blade
Kerf size of a blade can be understood in terms of the width of slot/cut that is created by the saw blade during cutting or simply the blade’s thickness. A thicker kerf is considered better as they make bigger cuts and can easily be sharpened but requires a powerful motor.
Although there are some excellent thin kerf blades out there, they generally are considered weaker and more suitable for low powered saws. Thin kerf blades are essentially required for delicate, accurate cuttings and they also produce less wastage.
However, you should keep in mind that every saw has a design kerf limit towards maximum so you need to find the thickness of kerf which your saw can accommodate with.
- Hook Angle of the blade
Hook angle sometimes also called the rake of a blade, is the angle of the cutting edge of blade teeth with respect to the center of the blade. It is the angle at which the blade enters into the workpiece and controls the feed rate during cutting.
Lower hook angles bite shallow and tend not to climb the workpiece making it safer but slower. Higher hook angles are on the other hand considered better for stationary saws where self-feeding is not an issue. Also, softer materials require a higher hook angle while it needs to be reduced as you cut tougher materials.
- The gullet of a blade
Although not a deal-breaker, you should also consider the gullet of a blade before purchasing it. It is the little empty area between any two teeth of the blade which serves to remove chips and keeps it cool during cutting. The depth of gullet defines the extent of chips generated and therefore is an important factor.
We have just summarized the most vital information that you need to know when buying a saw blade for cutting aluminum. With a bit of luck, along with our guide and product reviews, you can find out the best miter saw blade for cutting aluminum for yourself.
Thanks for reading!!!
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